ISSUE 1 - 1ST FEB 2014

Editor: Jes Bickham
jes@whitedwarf.co.uk

Assistant Editor: Matt Keefe

mattk@whitedwarf.co.uk

Senior Staff Writer: Adam Troke

adam@whitedwarf.co.uk

Staff Writer: Daniel Harden
dan@whitedwarf.co.uk

Production Lead:
Rebecca Ferguson
rebecca@whitedwarf.co.uk

Digital Editor: Melissa Roberts
melissa@whitedwarf.co.uk

Lead Designer: Matthew Hutson

matt@whitedwarf.co.uk

Designer: Kristian Shield
kris@whitedwarf.co.uk

Designer: Ben Humber
ben@whitedwarf.co.uk

Photo Editor: Glenn More
glenn@whitedwarf.co.uk

Photographer: Erik Niemz
erik@whitedwarf.co.uk

Photographer: Martyn Lyon
martyn@whitedwarf.co.uk

Publisher: Paul Lyons
paul@whitedwarf.co.uk

Welcome to a brave new dawn for White Dwarf! Your indispensable guide to what’s new and exciting in the Games Workshop hobby has gone weekly. Every seven days we’ll deliver the best coverage of the newest Citadel miniatures, plus copious guides and commentary on painting, modelling and gaming, interviews, regular columns from luminaries such as Jervis Johnson, and oodles more. Simply pop in to your local Games Workshop Hobby Centre every Saturday to procure your copy. I hope you’ll join us on our new weekly adventure, and please let us know what you think by dropping us a line at
team@whitedwarf.co.uk.

And so, on to our first weekly issue, in which the Dwarfs surge forth from their mountain holds to fight back the dark things of the Warhammer world. You can see the new miniatures from page two, including a quite brilliant Dragon Slayer, the fantastic Belegar Ironhammer and some splendid new Hammerers. Enjoy!

Hammerers are grim, unyielding warriors, the embodiment of the indomitable Dwarf spirit. As veterans of many wars, they often act as bodyguards for Dwarf Lords and Thanes, the gromril hammers they carry into battle a symbol of their venerable duty.

As befits their position within Dwarf society, Hammerers are gifted some of the best equipment available to a Dwarf warrior. Their scale mail armour is embellished with runes and sigils, while their anvil-shaped helms are decorated with intricate filigree. Each of the 10 warriors in this multi-part plastic kit carries an ornate great hammer wrought heavy with Dwarfen runes, scrollwork and precious gemstones, a gift from their liege lord and a symbol of the warrior bond between them.

The set also contains options for a standard bearer, musician and Keeper of the Gate – a gruff-looking champion who wields an elaborate hammer and carries his helm tucked into his beard, his contempt for his foes written on his face. It is his role to lead the Hammerers into battle and ensure his lord comes to no harm, protecting him with his life if necessary. As a consequence, the Hammerers can always be found where the fighting is thickest, pulverising bone and armour with every swing. DH

The oldest and most irascible Dwarf warriors are known as Longbeards. They are dour, grumbling veterans who have fought through centuries of warfare and lived to tell of it. Younger Dwarfs view Longbeards with respectful awe, and fight harder in their presence.

The clearest sign of a Dwarf’s age is the length of his beard, and the Longbeards kit contains some of the most lustrous and abundant whiskers ever to grace a Citadel miniature; it’s full of great bushy beards hung with rings, precious stones and ancestor runes. Their heads are capped with war helms and they wear long suits of valuable scale armour.

Within this plastic kit are all the parts you need to make 10 Dwarf Longbeards armed with hand weapons and shields, or with two-handed axes, including options for a full command group of Old Guard, musician and standard bearer.

My favourite feature of the kit, however, must be the shields, each of which bears a stylised ancestor rune. These carved faces depict the likeness of a long dead Dwarfen forefather – a bearded face, borne proudly into battle to honour those who have come before. This connects beautifully with the theme of the Longbeards, who are essentially the army’s living ancestors. AT

Once the exiled heir to Karak Eight Peaks, Belegar Ironhammer has returned with a mighty throng of Dwarf warriors. Already Belegar has reclaimed the upper halls, and now he and his warriors tirelessly battle the Skaven and Goblins infesting the ancient Dwarfen hold.

Belegar Ironhammer is the king of Karak Eight Peaks, an ancient Dwarf hold long ago besieged and overrun by Skaven and Night Goblins. For centuries his clan were forced to wander, until at last Belegar’s army gained a foothold in the above ground fortifications. From here he constantly launches forays to break the stranglehold of the greenskins and ratkin that muster in the darkness below. In battle, Belegar is a force to be reckoned with. Hammer in hand, he summons the wrath of his forebears to steel his sinews and guide his aim as he pummels his foes into a bloody ruin.

Stood upon a rune-carved Oath Stone, Belegar is strongly connected to the ancestors he seeks to avenge. He wields the Hammer of Angrund, the runic weapon of his clan, handed down by his forefathers. As a fighter first and foremost, Belegar’s trappings are all practical: his armour is forged from precious gromril, the strongest and most valuable of Dwarf metals, and he clutches the rune-bound Shield of Defiance, a potent piece of wargear that has warded off death many times, from the blades of assassins to the vomit of Trolls.

My favourite aspect of this model is how Belegar stands defiantly upon the Oath Stone he recovered from a tomb deep within Karak Eight Peaks. This stone slab is carved with the Dwarf runes for revenge, which encompasses this noble monarch’s mission. He will not rest until he has avenged the losses of his ancestors and reclaimed his birthright, and woe betide any foe that stands in his way. AT

Dwarfs who take the Slayer Oath commit themselves to seeking out a glorious death in battle, hunting down savage beasts and deadly monsters. Dragon Slayers are among the greatest of this strange fraternity, monster slayers and warriors almost without peer.

Should a Dwarf experience some great shame in his life, he will take up the Slayer Oath; a solemn vow that only ends with death. Casting aside all save their axes, these doom-seeking souls search out and fight dreaded monsters in a quest to make their death meaningful. Of these Dwarfs, few are greater in skill than the Dragon Slayers, seasoned killers whose axe blows lay low even the greatest beasts with a single bone-crunching chop.

Portraying a Slayer fearlessly throwing himself into battle, the Dragon Slayer model is the epitome of dynamic posture and Brian Nelson, the designer of this plastic Citadel miniature, has evoked the classic Warhammer imagery of the Dwarf Slayer, with a bright orange crest of hair and a bare torso rippling with muscles. The title of Dragon Slayer is given only to those Slayers whose skill keeps death at bay, and this model is festooned with the iconography of that rank, with dragon heads upon his axes and the large carved stone from which he is leaping into action.

The Dragon Slayer’s dominant feature is certainly his huge crest of hair, a triple mowhawk (fully half the height of the Slayer himself) that ends in a long plait. Upon taking up the Slayer Oath, a Dwarf will shave his head, save for his beard and a crest of hair, both of which he dyes bright orange. This crest will grow throughout the Dwarf’s oath and, unless damaged in battle or by Dragon fire, they can grow to lengths as prodigious as a Dwarf’s beard. These both lend a welcome element of the bizarre, darkly humorous rationale behind Dwarf Slayers. AT

Brother is fighting brother and the Great Crusade is in tatters. But whose side will the White Scars take in the ensuing conflict?

Hot on the heels of Brotherhood of the Storm, Scars continues the tale of the White Scars Legion during the Horus Heresy. The story takes place in the aftermath of the Drop Site Massacre at Isstvan V and Leman Russ’s assault on Prospero.

Cut off from the rest of the Great Crusade by turbulent Warp storms, the White Scars are totally in the dark about the events going on around them. When they finally get word from the rest of the galaxy, the messages are garbled and contradictory. Caught in a web of conflicting information, the Khan has to make a tough decision as to who to ally with – a decision that several Primarchs have made before him. Only Jaghatai is ignorant of the truth.

There are lots of characters and converging plots in this novel, keeping you constantly on your toes, jumping from one story arc to another as the White Scars piece together what’s happened. One moment you’re following a Stormseer through the seething depths of the warp, the next you’re embroiled in a void battle between the White Scars and the Alpha Legion. Turn the page and you’re on the command bridge of the Hrafnkel, Leman Russ’s personal Battle Barge, before darting back to the White Scars fleet where lodge gatherings (a stomach-turning phrase if you’re a devout loyalist) are taking place within the bowels of their ships.

Aside from Russ, several other Primarchs make appearances in the book, either as part of the story, or in flashbacks, giving you a glimpse of how the Khan views each of them and what they think of him in return. The chapters written from his point of view are especially deep and you get a real sense of the emotional trauma he’s suffering as he learns about the Heresy and what’s happened to his brothers. To say any more would reveal some of the great plot twists – you’ll just have to read the book yourself. Suffice to say that you cannot predict what Jaghatai Khan will do next, and when he does come face to face with one of his brothers, the fight is epic.

I can say, without a shadow of a doubt, that Scars has become my favourite novel in the series so far – the storytelling is pure Heresy gold, beautifully written and incredibly compelling. I got so excited that I’ve already undercoated a Space Marine white. Chris Wraight has set himself a very high bar with this one. DH

Further Reading

The Horus Heresy series contains more than 30 novels, anthologies and novellas, and continues to grow at an astounding pace as the ancient history of Warhammer 40,000 is unfurled in staggering detail. To start your own journey into the Horus Heresy, pick up a copy of Horus Rising, the opening novel in this best-selling series of books.

If you’re already entrenched in the Horus Heresy, and like the sound of Scars, check out Brotherhood of the Storm, which introduces the characters featured in Scars for the first time.

High King Thorgrim Grudgebearer sets out to unleash his vengeance upon Orc Warlord Gorfang Rotgut.

Thorgrim Grudgebearer, High King of the Dwarfs, is the keeper of the Dammaz Kron, the Book of Grudges kept by the Dwarfs to record the wrongs perpetrated against them. In this novella, Thorgrim marches to war alongside Belegar Ironhammer in a bloody fight to oust the greenskins besieging Karak Eight Peaks.

The great strength of this story is the way it switches perspective between Thorgrim, Belegar’s queen, Kemma, and Gorfang Rotgut, leader of the greenskin throng. Each helps explore an aspect of the character of the Dwarfs: Thorgrim, their unforgiving nature; Gorfang, what it is like to face them in battle; and Kemma, most interesting of all, the values of hearth and home that drive their endless struggle. AT

The fate of mankind teeters in the balance as a grievously wounded Horus faces the lure of the Chaos.

False Gods is the second part in the Horus Heresy series, and explores the continuing enticements of Chaos towards the Warmaster as he struggles with the silence of his distant father and the rise of powers as unfamiliar as they are dangerous.

In this novel, we witness Horus’s turn to the Dark Gods. It’s a tragic tale, filled with intrigue, deception and the sorcerous power of the Warp. The plot races along, fuelled by McNeill’s expert storytelling and a cast of fantastically realised characters, such as Garviel Loken, who were introduced in the first novel and continued here in flawless fashion. While the story contained in this novel is hardly new, False Gods is now available in a new, larger, trade paperback format. AT

FURTHER READING

If stories of Dwarfs, such as the excellent Thorgrim, fire your imagination, then the Black Library has plenty more to keep you entertained.

First and foremost among these is the exceptionally popular Gotrek & Felix series, beginning with Trollslayer (available as a Black Library Classic in gorgeous hardback)or as part of Gotrek & Felix: The First Omnibus, which contains two other rollicking tales of bloody mayhem. Other stories about Dwarfs include the Time of Legends series, which features The Great Betrayal, all about the War of the Beard.

Index Chaotica is a series of articles delving into the dark lore behind the creatures, servants and weapons of Chaos. Index Chaotica: Volume I collects all eight of the previously published issues into one blasphemous (digital) tome. Within it you will find artwork and background describing Plague Marines, Noise Marines, The Eye of Terror, Rubricae, Possessed, the Garden of Nurgle, Defilers and Juggernauts of Khorne. Index Chaotica: Volume I is available for download in both ePub and Mobi formats. Visit the iBookstore or the Games Workshop website for more details. AT

Our friends at Full Control have been exploring the darkest corners of the galaxy with their Space Hulk game for PC, Mac and iOS. Bringing all the tactics and tension of the classic Space Hulk board game to life with beautiful visuals and evocative sound effects, Full Control have done a fantastic job.

Now, hot on the heels of their original release, which featured the the Sin of Damnation campaign and multiplayer gaming, Full Control have created yet more expansions. Among their latest additions are Space Wolves Terminators to use in your games and four more exciting campaigns, including the classic Sword of Halcyon, where your squads must recapture a Space Marine vessel that has fallen to the Genestealers. AT

Warhammer: Visions is the new monthly magazine from the creators of White Dwarf. It’s a massive 236-page celebration of the best Citadel miniatures in the world, stuffed with lavish photography of the latest releases and plenty more besides.

Issue one of Warhammer: Visions kicks off with an exhautive showcase of all the Tyranid miniatures released in January, along with a feature that spotlights the nefarious other bioforms that populate the dreaded Hive Fleets. You’ll also find a variety of regular features stuffed to the gunwales with glorious photography, including 52 pages of the best entries from Golden Demon USA.

Army of the Month, meanwhile, covers Andy Keddie and Gary Shaw’s splendid Vampire Counts, Kit Bash looks at converted Ork Trukks, Ahriman Must Die! pits the Grey Knights and Eldar against the Chaos Space Marines, and Paint Splatter tells you how to paint 11 different Tyranid Hive Fleets. Warhammer: Visions issue one is on sale now. JB

Recently I was tinkering with some ideas about allowing players to earn the first turn. The result is the Scouting Game, representing your scouts’ attempts to outwit your opponent’s, and give you the initiative at the start of the battle proper.

The game can be played in about five minutes or so, before your game of Warhammer or Warhammer 40,000. Whoever wins is assumed to have won the dice roll to see who gets the first turn in the battle you are fighting. Note that it’s just the dice roll for first turn that is replaced, so playing the Scouting Game doesn’t stop you from trying to Steal the Initiative or suchlike. It also means you can’t use the Scouting Game if there is no dice roll, or if modifiers or re-rolls are involved (though you could re-fight the game if you wanted).

The Battlefield
The first thing you’ll need to do is create the battlefield over which your scouts will fight. Take a piece of paper and divide it into five columns and eight rows. Number the columns 1 to 5, and then draw a thick black line between the third and fourth rows so as to divide them in half.

The Scouts

Each player picks five models from their army to be their scouts. Pick any models you like, as long as they have bases small enough to fit into the squares on your board. Place the models so that one player’s models are in the grey shaded squares at the top of the board with the other player’s models facing them in the grey shaded squares at the bottom.

The object of the game is to get three or more of your scouts over the thick black line at the centre of the board. The first player to do so wins the scouting battle and is allowed to choose if they go first or second in the battle.

Sequence of Play

Starting with the player who has the most painted models in their collection, players take it in turns to make one or more Scouting Rolls, and may be allowed to make one or more Scouting Moves.

First Scouting Roll

The first thing a player must do each turn is to make a Scouting Roll. Take the six dice and roll them all. You are looking for at least one or the following scoring rolls:

Lucky Six: A dice that has rolled a six.

Three of a kind: Three of the same number. Three ones, for example.

Run: Three or more numbers in a row. A one, a two and a three, for example. You can have more than three dice in a run: a one, a two, a three and a four, for example.

If you haven’t got a scoring roll, you go bust: all your saved rolls are lost, your go is over, and it’s your opponent’s turn.

If you have made a scoring roll, put one or more of the scoring rolls to one side and decide whether you want to carry on making Scouting Rolls or would prefer to make Scouting Moves instead. Note that you must put at least one scoring roll aside but not necessarily all of them one – it is up to you how many you keep.

Subsequent Scouting Rolls
If you decide to make another scouting roll, re-roll any of the dice that you haven’t already put to the side.

If your new roll includes a Lucky Six, Three of a Kind or a Run, put one or more of the new scoring rolls to the side along with the ones saved earlier, and then choose if you wish to make another Scouting Roll or make a Scouting Move instead. Keep on doing this until you decide to make a Scouting Move, or go bust.

Remember that if you go bust, your turn is over, and all the scoring rolls you may have saved from previous rolls are lost. You must decide how far you dare push your luck: the more Scouting Rolls you make, the more Scouting Moves you’ll be able to make, but the greater the chance of going bust and losing everything!

Scouting Moves

If you decide to make a Scouting Move, then you get to move one or more of your scout models, and then your turn is over and your opponent gets a go.

Each scoring roll that you put to one side allows a different sort of move:

Lucky Six: Move one of your pieces a space forward or one enemy piece a space back.

Three of a Kind: Move your scout on the column with the corresponding number three spaces forward. Sixes may be used to move one of your scouts in any column three spaces. Three of a kind can’t be used to move enemy scouts.

Run: Move the scouts in the columns corresponding to the run one space each. So a run of three, four and five would allow the scouts in columns three, four and five to each move one space. In each column you may either move one of your own scouts forward a space or an enemy scout back a space. A six in a run can be used to move any one of your pieces forward, or an opposing piece one space backwards.

Blocked Moves

You may never make a move if the space is occupied by an enemy scout – you must end your move in the adjacent space and any remaining spaces of movement are lost. A piece can never be moved off the board, or sideways into a different column.

All-out!

You go All Out! when you manage to put all six dice aside as part of scoring rolls (e.g. you have no dice left to roll). If you go All Out! you may immediately move your scouts, and then get another go instead of handing the dice over to your opponent!

Winning

To win, you must have three scouts in the opposing half of the board at the end of your turn.

To play the Scouting Game, you’ll need to make your own board, like the one below. This is easily made by dividing a piece of paper into five columns and eight rows.

You’ll need enough space to place the miniatures representing your scouts onto the board. We used an A4-sized piece of paper (a standard UK size, about the same as legal or foolscap, or 297mm x 210mm if you want to be precise).

Last month, Codex: Tyranids was unleashed upon the galaxy, spilling a wave of new monsters and brood beasts onto battlefields everywhere. As the Imperium recoils in horror, Adam Troke asks what this means for Tyranid players and their opponents.

In the month since Codex: Tyranids was released, the White Dwarf team has been getting to grips with the possibilities. We’ve spent hours poring over the book and fought bloody battles in the hobby room. All this has led me to one certain conclusion: we are living in the age of the Monstrous Creatures.

The Tyranid army now has access to 10 Monstrous Creatures (12, if you include the infamous Old One Eye and the Swarmlord). These chitinous beasts are towering behemoths of muscle and bone capable of smashing tanks with their claws and weathering the firepower of an Imperial Guard platoon. They also carry the most powerful weapon symbiotes in the Tyranid army. Most importantly, killing them requires an entirely different mindset and tactical approach to scything down broods of lesser beasts.

The Tyranid army once had only the Carnifex and Hive Tyrant to call upon. Now there is a heavy-hitter for every occasion, be it the anti-tank firepower of the Tyrannofex’s rupture cannon, the air superiority of the Hive Crone or just slaughtering enemy infantry by the dozen with a Trygon. The conundrum these monsters present dawned on me as my Dark Angels army lined up for battle against Jes’s Tyranids. How were my Space Marines, accustomed to being the most durable and dangerous warriors on the battlefield, but typically outnumbered, going to survive against tougher, deadlier creatures? And, if I managed it, what would it cost in lives?

As the game progressed, and I traded the lives of the 1st Legion for those of the Tyranid beasts, I realised that we are now likely to see a whole new type of Tyranid army on the battlefield. Where in the past a few Monstrous Creatures advanced among a sea of Hormagaunts and other broods, now it’s entirely possible to see armies composed almost exclusively of them. This new monstrous invasion uses lesser broods to seize objectives or soak up enemy fire until the Carnifexes and Tervigons get their crushing claws on the foe. Killing all those monsters is an unnerving prospect. This is, I suppose, the natural evolution of the Tyranid Hive fleets. For years now, waves of Termagants and Hormagaunts have plagued the armies of the galaxy, who have in turn concocted effective counter-measures to deal with them. What’s good for wiping out broods is usually not very effective against Monstrous Creatures, though. My Tactical Marine clutching the squad flamer certainly felt woefully under-equipped as a Hive Tyrant singled him out.

A cautionary note on all this: don’t take it for granted which Tyranid army you will be facing. If you suddenly equip all of your models with monster-killing guns, you’re leaving yourself open to being overrun by a chittering tide when you least expect it. Hobbyists like Jes, who have been collecting for years and have added all the new monsters to their collection, can easily switch between army styles: hordes in one game, middleweights in the next, giant monsters in the one after that. There are more options and tactics available to Tyranid players now than ever before. Fittingly, the Tyranid army is now the most adaptable army in Warhammer 40,000.

Death From Above

The Hive Crone, in my estimation, is the most versatile and deadly Tyranid monster of all, capable of fulfilling the joint roles of air superiority fighter and ground attack unit. In the early stages of the battle, use it to hunt down enemy flyers, where its tentaclid missiles swim through the skies to overload enemy attack craft with electromagnetic pulses. With the skies under your control, use the Hive Crone’s drool cannon against ground targets. A weapon that dissolves the foe in a stream of acidic bile, the drool cannon is great for flushing infantry out of cover in a corrosive torrent.

The Hive Crone’s greatest strength, however, is not the bio weapons it wields, but rather its own massive bulk – it can slam into the enemy with a Vector Strike attack, potentially causing four Strength 8, AP3 hits. That’s more than enough brute strength to slaughter infantry and cripple vehicles.

Robin Cruddace: A Creature For All Seasons

Whilst Adam heralds this the age of the Monstrous Creature, I’ve personally always favoured mixed-style Tyranid forces; several swarms of Termagants, Gargoyles and Hormagaunts at the core, a few broods of middleweights – Tyranid Warriors, Hive Guard and the like – for support and a few Monstrous Creatures for good measure. They’re very satisfying collections that look great on any battlefield. The latest wave of Monstrous Creatures – the Exocrine, Haruspex, Hive Crone and Harpy – take their place in this alien line-up nicely, bridging the gap between Carnifexes and the largest Tyranids – the Trygons and Tyrannofexes. I can’t wait to see what the Hive Mind creates next.

The Tyranids’ versatility doesn’t stop with the choice of which models you collect – with many broods there’s even choice when it comes to deciding what alien bio-weaponry to equip them with. From razor-sharp talons to symbiotic bio-rifles, the Tyranids can be equipped to match almost any play style. Furthermore, a mixture of weaponry can often be taken within the same brood, giving the choice between focussing on a single battlefield role to the exclusion of all others, or deploying with the ability to engage a wider range of prey.

So, if Tyranids are all about choice, what would you do? Will you swamp the enemy with chittering swarms of alien horrors or stomp them flat with towering armoured monsters? Will you dominate the Assault phase with Genestealers and Haruspexes or blast your enemy at range with Exocrines and Hive Guard? Do you mix and match the Carnifexes in your broods with a balanced mixture of bio-weapons to take on all comers, or construct and unleash ravenous close-combat monsters, point them towards the enemy and watch them rampage across the battlefield? Whatever you favour, the Tyranids have the versatility to match it, and carnage will doubtless ensue.

Jes Bickham: Bring On The Big Guys

Adam rightly points out that my Tyranid collection is so large now that I can tailor it to favour many different types of battle, but I agree entirely that this is the age of the Monstrous Creature, and it’s currently what I find particularly exciting about being an earthly herald of the Great Devourer. All hail the Hive Mind!

Those of you who read January’s White Dwarf will have seen that I managed to paint up a Harpy, Hive Crone and Exocrine for my part in that issue’s Battle Report. That’s only the start: I’m currently putting paint to Haruspex, for instance. While, fittingly, most of the big beasts sit in the Heavy Support section, the Haruspex sits in the Elites section, meaning that every part of the Force Organisation chart allows you to bring a Monstrous Creature to the table. (Yes, even Troops – for every 30-strong brood of Termagants you field you can take a mighty Tervigon as a Troops choice). So exciting is this development that it’s also fired me up to fill other holes in my collection; I’ve got a Trygon but no Mawloc, for example, and I have a fun vision of modelling one bursting out from a scenic base made from a chopped-up Wall of Martyrs Defence Line.

Also, you might think I’ve got enough Carnifexes – four, at latest count – but with the ability to potentially take a whopping nine in an army (plus Old One Eye as an HQ choice), I’m certainly tempted to paint up at least another, ooh, six. You can mix and match bio-weaponry and biomorphs in broods, too, allowing for some terrific battlefield diversity. No tank in the 41st millennium will be safe from my armour-smashing predations!

So frankly, I can’t see an end anytime soon to my quest to field as many Monstrous Creatures as possible; the lack of hours in the day is my only obstruction. I haven’t even mentioned my idea for converting a Hive Crone to be ripping apart a Stormtalon Gunship in mid-flight…

Phil Kelly: Let the Good Times Roll

Adam has a point about the proliferation of Monstrous Creatures. Still, I for one welcome our new alien overlords, because these giant gribblies make great centrepieces on the battlefield as well as the display cabinet. With the notable exception of the Tyrannofex, we Tyranid players don’t have much in the way of ranged anti-armour power, so we tend to do it up close with lots of ripping and tearing instead. Not all of these monsters will make it to the enemy line – ‘shoot the big ones’ is a classic piece of anti-Tyranid doctrine, after all. Those that do make it to the party zone, however, can completely change the flow of the game. Even a mighty Fortress of Redemption can be pulled down by a rampaging Carnifex, and a flying Hive Tyrant is a kind of Swiss army knife of destruction that has a good chance of destroying almost anything in the game.

With the Hive Fleets on the rise once more, it’s now possible to have an entire Tyranid army without a single gaunt-sized critter in it. By taking Tyranid Warriors as your mainstays, you can ensure that the smallest beast at your behest is a towering 12-foot killer. There is serious appeal to the idea of loading up on as many giant beasties as possible and just setting them loose. I’ve grown fond of the really big snakey stuff: Trygons, Mawlocs, and the like. These are true heavyweights that tower intimidatingly over the enemy ranks, taking the pressure off the Hive Tyrants and Tervigons at the heart of your force.

I’m sure Adam remembers my Mawloc’s debut game just as well as I do – the serpentine beastie burst out of the ground on time and on target, swallowing all 10 of Adam’s Assault Marines in a single gulp. I don’t think he’s ever really forgiven me… If only I could make the Mawloc perform so well again. Maybe it’s just hungry for another bite of Adam’s army.

Next week Phil brings us a new column in which he writes about finding joy in painting hordes.

Paint Splatter provides handy tips and stage-by-stage painting guides for the week’s key releases. This week, we look at the new Dwarf Longbeards.

Keen to add a unit of Longbeards to his collection, Duncan Rhodes painted this unit in the same style as those painted by the ’Eavy Metal team. He started by painting all of the models with a solid coat of Leadbelcher, which he applied using a Large Drybrush, though a Spray Gun would work just as well.

“Dwarfs are very neat and tidy,” explains Duncan, “so I edge-highlighted the armour rather then drybrushing it. The end result is highly-polished armour rather than the scratched and battle-worn look achieved by drybrushing. The thinned-down blue glaze also helps to give the armour a metallic sheen and make it stand out from the mundane steel or iron of other races.” With the silver armour painted, Duncan then picked out all the gold areas on the shields and runes.

Edge Highlighting

Edge Highlighting is a great way to represent light reflecting off the raised edges of metal and lacquered armour. A thin line of paint applied with a Fine Detail Brush gives it a polished appearance, ideal for Dwarfs.

Having finished the armour, Duncan painted the beards and faces of the Longbeards. “There isn’t much visible skin on a Dwarf,” adds Duncan, “as their faces are mostly hidden by their beards. For that reason I painted the skin first, tidying up any messy areas when I painted the basecoat on the beards. I also used three different beard colours for the unit, reasoning that not every Dwarf would have the same colour hair. I avoided painting a light grey beard as it looked too similar to the silver armour, opting instead for a dark grey beard with sharp white highlights.” DH

Sprues and Glue is our regular in-depth look at modelling Citadel miniatures. This week, hobby gurus Dave Andrews and Tom Hibberd offer top tips and advice on assembling plastic miniatures and getting the most out of plastic glue.

“Most Citadel miniatures are made from plastic, which means plastic glue is a tool you will find yourself returning to over and again,” says Dave Andrews. “Using it isn’t complicated, but there are some handy tips that you pick up over the years.”

“For a start, once you have removed your models from the frame, and before you glue anything together, prepare the parts,” says Tom. “Do this by scraping the contact points where the glue will go with a Mouldline Scraping Tool.

As you do this, you’ll notice the area loses its glossy finish. This means that the plastic glue will take better, and cure faster. Don’t scrape hard though, you’re only looking to rough the surface up a little. When you are doing this, always practice a dry fitting to perfect the pose before you use any glue.

“When applying glue, it’s easy to use too much, so it spills out over the model and damages details,” Tom continues. “Avoid this by forming a bead of glue at the end of the nozzle and pressing the component to it. This makes it easier to retain control of the amount of glue you use”.

“It’s also important to apply glue to both of the surfaces you are joining,” Dave adds. “I typically apply glue to one of the parts and then press the pieces together before separating them for a moment. Letting the glue sit on both parts for a few seconds, before joining them permanently, allows the air to react with them and improves the overall bond.

Then, press the pieces firmly together and hold them for 30 seconds or so. The longer you keep them together, the more confident you can be the join will hold.”

“Plastic glue takes at least 10 minutes to completely cure, so it’s important to keep the pieces from moving around too much,” warns Tom. “The best advice is to place the model safely out of the way. I often rest my models on something, like a blob of adhesive putty, especially if the weight of the parts is likely to cause them to move before the glue sets or dries.

“Finally, a word of advice on keeping your plastic glue in working order,” Tom says. “When you aren’t using your glue, even if it’s just for short breaks, always replace the cap on the bottle. Ideally, store your plastic glue upside down in a cup or pressed into a scrap of foam – this stops glue from setting in the nozzle and clogging up. If it does clog, turning it upside down for half an hour or so usually solves the problem.” AT

Which Glue To Use?

The Citadel range includes two types of Plastic Glue. As Tom explains, they each serve a subtly different function.

“Plastic glue causes a chemical reaction, essentially welding the pieces you are joining together in a permanent bond,” Tom explains. “This creates a very strong finish. You can enhance your results by choosing the right glue for each task.

“Plastic Glue: Thick is for gluing components together at larger joins, as well as places where the contact point is mostly out of sight, such as gluing models to bases or arms into shoulder sockets. Thick plastic glue sets fairly slowly – and that’s a good thing, since it gives you a chance to manipulate the join, but it also means that if you are gluing very large pieces, such as the hull of a tank, you have time to apply all the glue before it starts to cure. There’s nothing more annoying than finding the glue is drying before you’ve finished applying it.

“Plastic Glue: Thin is for fixing small, visible components together,” Tom continues. “It cures faster and can be applied more accurately, so it’s ideal for joins where precision is called for. Use it for tasks such as attaching purity seals, banner tops and so on.

“Regardless of which glue you use, all the other advice is the same. Apply it sparingly, and give it long enough to set properly for the best results.”

Using Too Much

In some cases using a little too much plastic glue can be a good thing since it effectively hides visible joins. This is ideal on parts such as the barrel of a Leman Russ battle cannon. Let the glue that squeezes out when you press the parts together set. Once it has, carefully scrape the excess away with a Mouldline Scraping Tool.

Save The Crystal

Although it’s made of plastic, don’t use plastic glue on crystal components such as canopies and windows. Plastic glue (and super glue for that matter) causes the crystal to cloud up, ruining the model. Only use PVA glue to attach these components. It might seem like a hassle, but it’s not worth the risk.

Belegar Ironhammer is the descendent of King Lunn, the last king to rule Karak Eight Peaks. Almost 3,000 years later, Belegar has returned to the great city, intent on scouring its hallowed halls of the vile greenskins and insidious Skaven now dwelling there. What do we think of him?

TROOP TYPE: Infantry (Special Character).

SPECIAL RULES: Stubborn

Ancestral Grudge: Dwarfs always have the Hatred (Orcs & Goblins) and Hatred (Skaven) special rules – this means any unit taken from Warhammer: Orcs & Goblins or Skaven. To determine the level of bitterness the Dwarfs feel towards other armies, after deployment but before Vanguard moves, roll a D6 and consult the following chart:

1-2 Personal Vendetta. The Dwarf General has
the Hatred special rule against the opposing
army’s General.

3-4 Rancorous Resolve. All friendly character models with the Ancestral Grudge special rule have the Hatred special rule against all character models from the opposing army.

5-6 Seething Score to Settle. All friendly models with the Ancestral Grudge special rule have the Hatred special rule against all models in the enemy army.

Resolute: Models with this special rule have +1 Strength during a turn in which they charge into combat.

Relentless: Units entirely composed of models with this special rule do not need to pass a Leadership test in order to march, regardless of the proximity of enemy units.

Revenge Incarnate: Once per game, at the start of any Close Combat phase, Belegar can harness the power of his ancestors. For the remainder of the turn, he doubles his Attacks characteristic.

MAGIC ITEMS:

The Hammer of Angrund: Magic Weapon. The wielder of this weapon has the Always Strikes First special rule, and Attacks made by the Hammer of Angrund receive a +1 bonus To Wound.

Shield of Defiance: Magic Armour. Shield. The Shield of Defiance grants Belegar a 4+ ward save. Additionally, this shield makes Belegar immune to the effects of the Killing Blow and Heroic Killing Blow special rules, treating wounding hits that would automatically slay him as a normal Wound.

The Vengeful King

Dan: I reckon Belegar Ironhammer is the perfect warrior to hunt down an enemy general and challenge them to single combat. Killing an enemy commander can often be the turning point in a battle and Belegar is easily powerful and resilient enough to get the job done. Such duels make best use of Belegar’s Revenge Incarnate special rule, allowing him to double his Attacks and really give the enemy general a battering.

A challenge also allows Belegar to make best use of his magic items. The Hammer of Angrund gives him Always Strikes First, negating his low Initiative and enabling Belegar to hit the majority of his opponents before they hit him. Combined with Revenge Incarnate and his Ancestral Grudge, there are not many characters that can survive such an onslaught, save those clad head to foot in armour, such as Chaos Lords, or quick enough to fight before him, like High Elves.

It’s in these circumstances where Belegar’s Shield of Defiance comes in handy. Combined with his gromril armour, it offers him excellent protection and gives him a ward save against even the most devastating assault. If that wasn’t enough, it also protects him from Killing Blow attacks, which have a nasty habit of cropping up in challenges.

To accompany Belegar to war, and protect him even further, I would field him alongside a unit of Hammerers, the traditional bodyguards for a Dwarf king. Not only does this appeal to my thematic way of building an army, but they will complement Belegar perfectly in battle, their great hammers dealing with the heavily armoured foes – such as Warriors of Chaos and Empire Knights – that he might struggle with. Just remember that they will be striking last due to their great weapons, so make sure you take a big unit to help weather the enemy’s attacks. DH

Unleash The Slaughter

Adam: While I (mostly) agree with Dan’s assessment, I personally think Belegar would be best employed avenging his ancestors against a horde of foes, rather than one at a time. Sure, he can win challenges against the average Lord or Hero, but against the best equipped characters – I’m looking at you Grimgor and Tyrion – he will probably come up short. Instead, consider hurling him into a regiment of Night Goblins, Orc Boyz or Skaven Clanrats and unleashing his Revenge Incarnate special rule against ordinary warriors. I would expect nothing less than four or five dead foes from his attacks, for no real damage in return – there are few rank-and-file models with the bite to cause a tough, heavily armoured bruiser like Belegar any real trouble when they try to fight back, thanks to his gromril battle armour and the Shield of Defiance.

So, my advice is this: send him after that one regiment in the enemy army that you absolutely want to destroy, and unleash the fury of his ancestors. Even better, try and line up a couple of fights so that, should King Ironhammer win the first combat and break his opponents, he can pursue onwards into the second fight and join that too. This takes some organising but, bearing in mind Belegar only benefits from the Revenge Incarnate rule for a single turn, it’s worth doing if you can.

Finally, I cannot fault Dan’s choice of companions for Belegar. Hammerers are the perfect accompaniment for a king, and with two Attacks each they are veritable killing machines. An alternative choice, if you wanted one, could be Ironbreakers. With gromril armour and shields, they are among the most durable infantry in Warhammer, which means that Belegar can concentrate on smashing skulls, safe in the knowledge that his retinue can weather the storm around him – you can’t bank on routing an enemy unit if your own is dying all around you. AT

Martin Footitt and Samir Battistotti are the designers behind the Hammerers and Longbeards, a new plastic kit for the Dwarfs out next week. Dan, White Dwarf’s resident beardling, chatted to them about the new models and how Dwarfen imagery influenced their design.

Hammerers and Longbeards

Martin Footitt: Dwarfs are master-craftsmen and exceptional engineers. Everything they make has a purpose, it’s functional, but it’s designed with pride and passion. A lot of care goes into their work, from the humblest hammer to the most ornate suit of armour. Even their beards are well-kept – there’s never a scraggly beard to be seen amongst a Dwarf throng. It’s this attention to detail and level of neatness that we wanted to convey with the Hammerers and Longbeards.

Samir Battistotti: The Longbeards and Hammerers all wear similar suits of armour – chainmail overlaid with heavy scale mail – to mark out their position in Dwarf society. Their armour is more elaborate than that worn by Dwarf Warriors, but not as ostentatious as the gromril armour worn by lords and thanes.

Martin: If you look carefully you’ll notice that each warrior displays distinctive knotwork, different sigils and symbols, unique runes, and so on. There’s uniformity, but also individuality. It shows that, while each suit of armour was crafted to a standard armour template (a very pragmatic Dwarfen practice), they have all been embellished, either by the Dwarf smith that made it or by the wearer.

Samir: That’s why all the shoulder pads and heads are different. The Hammerers all have unique scrollwork on their helmets, tiny hammer-shaped jewellery plaited into their beards and personalised hammer icons on their shoulder pads. Their helms are flat-topped too, much like an anvil – a nod to the affinity Dwarfs have with metalwork and forge-craft.

This helps to set them apart from the Longbeards, who have rounded helms, stylised faces of their ancestors on their shoulder guards and heavy, elaborate shields with more faces embossed on them. You’ll notice that there’s no cloth showing either – originally I planned to sculpt sleeves for them but, as Martin pointed out to me at the time, cloth doesn’t offer much protection.

Martin: They’re also heavily armoured across the shoulders to help deflect all those downwards blows they’re going to take. Almost every race in Warhammer has a height advantage over the Dwarfs, so they’re going to get hit round the shoulders a lot. They’re like an inverted triangle – incredibly broad across the top and tapering down.

Samir: Having finished all the suits of armour, I really wanted to personalise the weapons too. They all share a commonality of design but there are subtly different embellishments, runes and gemstones on each of them.

Martin: In the background, every Hammerer has his weapon specially crafted for him so it’s only appropriate that they should all look different.

Samir: With that in mind, I made all the Longbeards’ weapons unique too. These are the tools of their trade after all – axes and hammers are a very personal thing to a Dwarf, a prized possession. This is especially true of the unit champions; the Keeper of the Gate carries a particularly impressive great hammer, while the Old Guard carries a double-headed axe that’s been carefully engraved with Dwarfen runes. I liked the idea of him leaning on his shield to show that he’s not as young as he used to be. He also has the longest beard in a unit of very long beards, which is only fitting, really. DH

Join us for a round-up of the week as we share comment, opinion and trivia on the all latest releases, plus other fun tidbits that have cropped up in the White Dwarf bunker this week. As you might imagine, there’s a strong Dwarfen bent in this issue…

THE BLUFFER’S GUIDE TO DWARFS

Who are the Dwarfs?
An ancient race that has dwelt in the Warhammer world since before the age of Men, Dwarfs would have been content mining, brewing beer and minding their own business… until the Greenskins, Skaven and those rotten, untrustworthy Elves turned up and ruined everything.

What are they like?
Dwarfs tend to think they are better than everyone else. Certainly they are strong, resilient and very long-lived. They also have a tendency towards grumpiness and the unshakeable feeling that everything was better in the old days.

What’s with all the beards?
A Dwarf’s beard grows throughout his life, and is a source of great pride. The longer and more lustrous the whiskers, the wiser and more experienced the Dwarf is. Young Dwarfs are called beardlings. For a Dwarf to lose his beard is the gravest insult imaginable – such an incident caused one of the greatest wars of all time.

What’s all this stuff about grudges?
Dwarfs take insults and slights very seriously, and will bear a grudge forever or until it is avenged. No insult is too small for a Dwarf to bear a grudge, from a spilt beer to a full-scale Goblin invasion.

DWARF LORE

KARAZ ANKOR

The Karaz Ankor is the Dwarf name for their civilisation, literally translated as ‘the Everlasting Realm’. It is composed of scores of Dwarf holds and was once linked by a mighty underground roadway.

Karaz-a-Karak, or the Everpeak, is the capital of the realm, a mighty hold ruled by High King Thorgrim Grudgebearer.

ANCESTRAL GRUDGE

Through the millennia no foe has caused the Dwarves more grief than the Goblins and the Skaven. Both these races covet the Dwarfs’ mountain holds, and countless battles have been fought to control their underground homes. As a result of this endless feud, Dwarfs hate both greenskins and ratmen with unrivalled passion, and will kill them on sight if they are able.

ANCESTOR GODS

The Dwarfs worship three ancestor gods: Grimnir, Valaya and Grungni. These mighty beings once lived with the Dwarfs and taught them warfare, mining, metalcraft and more.

DESIGNERS NOTES EXTRA: BELEGAR

Our Designers Notes were so packed this week that we ran out of space for Belegar Ironhammer. Here’s what Edgar Ramos, the designer, has to say about the Dwarf king:

Edgar Ramos: I knew, before I started work on Belegar, that I wanted to sculpt a dynamic Dwarf which, I realise, are two words that rarely go together. Brian Nelson did a fantastic job sculpting the Dragon Slayer – it’s the most active Dwarf we’ve ever made, showing that Dwarf physiology can stretch to running and jumping. For Belegar I wanted that same level of dynamism, but more controlled. I kept both his feet firmly on the ground, but posed him with his arms stretched out, his mouth open in a shout. I imagine he’s bellowing a challenge at someone: “Bring it on!” The face on his shield represents one of his ancestors, a design that’s repeated on his back banner and the Oath Stone on which he’s standing.

ROLLING THUNDER

Matt Hutson has been hard at work painting lots of new Dwarfs, but he’s not completely forsaken some of the existing models in his collection.

“There are some regiments in my Dwarf army I always include in games,” Matt says. “The Thunderers are a good example of that. They have powerful handguns that can pepper weak enemies like Goblins and Skaven, and even pose a risk to armoured foes like knights. Best of all, because they are Dwarfs, Thunderers are good in a fight, so if the enemy gets to them, they still have a serious scrap on their hands.”

HOW DID THEY DO THAT?

When we first saw the Dragon Slayer we were very impressed by his stripy trousers. “Always paint the lighter of the two colours first,” says Tom Winstone from ’Eavy Metal. “I basecoated the trousers with Ceramite White and then shaded them with progressively darker greys. For the lines I sketched them in with Fenrisian grey first as it’s much easier to correct a light-coloured mistake than a dark one. I then carefully blocked in the lines with Hoeth Blue.”

WEAPON OF THE WEEK: BLOOD REAVER

Adam has been listening to Blood in the Machine, by Andy Smillie, as he paints this week. “There’s nothing better, or more ludicrous, than a six-foot long chainsaw wielded by a Space Marine,” Adam says. “Sure, Blood Reaver’s exposed teeth are a health and safety nightmare, and you wonder how Gabriel Seth has any fingers left, but the glorious descriptions and visceral sound effects of Orks getting churned into mulch are perfect.”

CODEX: APOCRYPHA - Notes from the worlds of Warhammer. This week: mostly alcohol.

DRUNK AND DISORDERLY

Beastmen Centigor are rarely sober. When they’re not fighting, they’re swilling looted wine or quaffing stolen beer, the result being a state of near permanent inebriation. Bray-Shamans use this to their advantage, magically imbuing the Centigor with messages, orders and information to recite when they reach their destination. The Centigor know nothing of this and barely recall the journey, preferring to focus their attention on finding their next drink.

BUGMAN’S BEER

While the most famous ale in the Karaz Ankor (and indeed the whole Old World) is Bugman’s XXXXXX, master brewer Josef Bugman is also responsible for a number of other famous beers, including Bugman’s Special, Trollbrew and the ominously named (although highly regarded) Durgrund’s Hellfire. Longbeards and beardlings alike make regular journeys to Bugman’s brewery where they load up on Bugman’s ‘famous four’.

BEST SEAT IN THE HOUSE

Tradition dictates the High King of the Dwarfs may not sit down, save upon the Throne of Power. This ancient relic has been in the hands of the Dwarfs for more than four thousand years, and legend tells that it was fashioned by the hands of Grungni and it was he who smote the great rune Azamar upon its gilded surface. The Dwarfs maintain that Azamar, the rune of eternity, is so potent that only one of its kind may exist at one time, and while it remains so too will the Dwarfs themselves.

READER’S MODEL OF THE WEEK

This Eldar Wraithknight was sent in to us by David Cañas Arribas, who painted it in the blue and yellow colour scheme of Craftworld Alaitoc.

David used an airbrush to get the smooth transition from light to dark blue on the armour and gave the Wraithknight’s faceplate a reflective sheen as if it were made of mirrored glass. The ghostglaive was painted a striking red to look like a crystalline weapon, much like those wielded by Farseers and Warlocks, while the scattershield is a deep bronze dotted with red spirit stones.

If you’ve painted a miniature that you think is worthy of a place in White Dwarf then why not send a picture to:

team@whitedwarf.co.uk

If it’s something we can use, we’ll be sure to get in touch.

ASK GROMBRINDAL

The White Dwarf team is a font of hobby knowledge, a metaphorical repository of useful facts. If you have a question about Warhammer 40,000 or Warhammer, need a bit of painting advice or you’re after a few tactical tips, drop us a line: team@whitedwarf.co.uk

BATTLESUIT BLUES

Tau Battlesuits have lots of support systems, but which component represents which system? Help me, White Dwarf!
- Shas’ui Steven H

GROMBRINDAL SAYS

We asked Matt Holland, designer of the Riptide, to explain Tau support systems:

“The simple answer is that you can use any of those components to represent your support systems,” says Matt. “The Tau are constantly developing their weapons and wargear and their support systems come in many shapes and sizes, from the ones on the Crisis Battlesuit to those on the Broadside and the Riptide. You can use any of these components can represent the support systems in Codex: Tau Empire; simply choose the ones you like best and stick them on your models. Just make sure you note them down in your army list so your opponent knows what they represent.”

- Grombrindal

THE WAR OF VENGEANCE

Nick Kyme is the renowned Black Library author of the Time of Legends novel, The Great Betrayal. He talks about Dwarf history:

“The Dwarf race was much larger and more powerful than it is now, but wars and natural disasters have diminished it,” Nick says. “In these trials, we see their stubbornness and courage, and how that gives them a never-say-die attitude.

“The War of Vengeance is one of the defining moments of their past, dragging the two mightiest races in the Warhammer world into a terrible war that left both sorely bloodied,” Nick adds. “It came about because of the cultural frailties of both races – the inward-looking Dwarfs couldn’t perceive the troubles of the wider world, while the Elves completely failed to acknowledge the canker at the heart of their empire. In the War of Vengeance Saga, Chris Wraight and I examine the origins of this bitter feud.”

Nicknamed ‘Da Boomtrukk’, Dan’s Looted Wagon has been converted using spare parts from the Baneblade kit. The looted bits are painted olive green to suggest that they’ve been freshly salvaged from an Imperial tank.

“My first memory of the Tyranids was from Advanced Space Crusade,” says Adam, reminiscing. “They had red skin and bone-coloured carapaces, a colour scheme that I remember with great fondness, which is why I’ve replicated it on my new models.”

Jes has painted his Warriors in the striking green of Hive Fleet Eumenides. Jes has also changed the colour of the weapon symbiotes on his new Tyranids, opting for an eye-catching purple. He plans to go back and repaint those on his other models, too – though knowing Jes’s meticulous nature, that could take several millennia.

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